I forgot to check up when the polar night starts! I remembered it shortly after we left Abisko and were making our way through the national park towards the lake, Abiskojaure. It could not be long now. The sun rose at 10.22 and set at 12.48. Six days? Maybe seven? In any case we would… Continue reading The Setting Sun
Tag: Norway
Øvre Dividalen
Grey days came. Grey days went. Kilpisjärvi was a quiet place in late autumn, seemingly existing only of empty hotels, dark cabins, a sports shop (surprisingly) and a supermarket. Only on Saturday night there were people to be found, when all the Norwegians crossed the border to get their parties going on slightly cheaper beer… Continue reading Øvre Dividalen
Reisadalen and a stormy crossing into Finland
The thermometer showed -16°C when we left the hotel in Kautokeino at 10 in the morning. The temperature we were actually feeling was -23°C. It was a crisp, clear morning, everything sparkled in the sunlight. Every twig, every blade of grass, every needle on every pine tree was frozen and covered with a thick layer… Continue reading Reisadalen and a stormy crossing into Finland
Finnmarksvidda
The crossing of Finnmarksvidda had made me nervous all along. While going over the maps during preparations it was always there: a huge empty spot on the map, barren, exposed, prone to very sudden changes in weather, only few cabins and they are far in between. Our encounter with the Germans in Honningsvåg did not… Continue reading Finnmarksvidda
To Olderfjord
While setting up camp on the south side of Nordkapstunnelen we noticed that the weather forecast had changed. Initially we had a 10 day good weather window reported, but all of the sudden a storm was bound to blow in during the night. At around 2 A.M. the winds picked up. Our tent, pitched on… Continue reading To Olderfjord
Nordkapp
When I retreated to my own bed for the final time on the evening of the 8th of October I had an odd feeling about it. I've always thought that the strangest moment of any expedition is the final night you sleep in your own bed, in the knowledge that when you put down your… Continue reading Nordkapp
Aarn Guiding Light Bodypack
Our story with Aarn starts on Te Araroa in New Zealand. When we first started encountering these packs we frowned at them with great skepticism, wondering how awkward it must be walking with those pockets on the front of your body. We didn’t really understand the point of it, and we decided we did not… Continue reading Aarn Guiding Light Bodypack
The road through Norway, part IV: Svalbard
Being the last outpost before the North Pole, the backcountry of Svalbard is one that truly deserves to be called wilderness. On these desolate islands approximately 2500 people share the land with more than 3000 polar bears. The geography is striking: pointy mountains rising out of the sea, broad valleys crosscut by glacial rivers, ridgelines… Continue reading The road through Norway, part IV: Svalbard
Packrafting the fjords
Going out on paddling trips in the deep blue waters of the Aurlands- and Nærøyfjords was a dream I'd cherished since first coming here two years ago. Because kayak rental is, however, expensive, and sometimes not allowed without proper certification, nothing ever came of it. Maybe one day, I figured, I'd have friends with a… Continue reading Packrafting the fjords
Peaks of the Aurlandsfjord, part II
The best way to appreciate the Norwegian scenery is undoubtedly, from above. My favourite means of travel is thus on foot, as unlike in other mountain areas such as the Alps, there is very little infrastructure in place to reach the tops. Besides of a few viewpoints along mountain roads you need to walk if… Continue reading Peaks of the Aurlandsfjord, part II
